Renaissance Clothing Vocabulary

The Renaissance (14th17th century) was a period of dramatic change in art, architecture, and fashion. Clothing became a vivid expression of wealth, status, and regional identity. Below is a concise guide to the most common terms youll encounter when studying the dress of this era.

Mens Garments

Doublet

A closefitting, padded jacket worn over a shirt. Early doublets were sleeveless; later versions added full sleeves, slashing, and decorative braiding.

Hose

Leg coverings that evolved from separate breeches and stockings to a single, tight-fitting pair. Often made of wool, silk, or linen and sometimes colored to match the doublet.

Jerkin

A sleeveless or shortsleeved garment worn over the doublet, commonly of leather or heavy wool, providing extra warmth and a rugged silhouette.

ShortGown (Gown of the Period)

A longer, slightly looser outer layer that could be worn open or closed, typically made of fine fabrics like velvet or brocade for the wealthy.

Codpiece

A padded flap covering the front of the hose, often elaborately embroidered; it became a bold fashion statement in the late 15th and early 16th centuries.

Fur Trim

Stoles, collars, or edging made from sable, marten, or ermine, adding luxury and warmth.

Cap or Hat

Varieties included the beret, flat cap, and later the tall, featheradorned hat known as the cavalier.

Womens Garments

Gown (Surcoat)

The main outer garment, typically fitted at the bodice and flaring at the skirt. Early Renaissance gowns were simple; later they featured farwide skirts supported by a farthingale.

Stays

Rigid, boned bodices that shaped the torso into a conical silhouette. They evolved from the medieval girdle and often extended to the hips.

Partlet

A lightweight, sleeveless overlay worn over the shoulders and neck, frequently embroidered or made of sheer linen.

Houpelande

A long, flowing robe with a high, sometimes furlined collar. Popular among the aristocracy for formal occasions.

Underdress (Chemise)

A simple linen shift that protected outer garments from sweat and oils.

Houppelande Sleeves

Large, draped sleeves that could be gathered or left loose, occasionally trimmed with fur or lace.

Headwear

Including French hoods, French coiffure caps, and later the galloon or jeweled diadem for highstatus women.

Accessories & Details

Ruffs

Starched, pleated collars that grew dramatically in size during the mid16th century. They were a status marker because of the labor and cost of maintenance.

Brocade & Damask

Rich, woven fabrics featuring raised patterns, often made with silk threads and metallic threads (gold or silver).

Embroidery

Thread work of gold, silver, and silk used on cuffs, collars, and hems. Motifs frequently included vines, scrolls, and heraldic symbols.

Buttons & Gilded Fittings

Made of bone, ivory, wood, or metal, sometimes gilded. Buttons began to replace laces as a decorative and functional feature.

Shoes

Lowheeled, pointed shoes known as poulaines early in the period; later, rounded chappes with small heels became fashionable.

Gloves

Worn by both sexes, often made of leather or fine silk, sometimes trimmed with lace.

Regional Variations

While the overarching vocabulary applies across Europe, distinct regional twists existed:

• Italian dress featured softer silhouettes, lighter fabrics, and elaborate silk work.
• French fashion introduced the high waistline (the sackback or galloon) and pioneered the ruff.
• English clothing retained more conservative cuts, with the cotehardie persisting into the early 1500s.
• Spanish attire favored dark, richly embroidered velvets; the jerkin often had a high collar and ornate trimming.

Glossary Summary

The table below gives a quick-reference overview.

Term	Gender	Typical Material	Key Feature
Doublet	Male	Wool, silk	Padded, fitted jacket
Hose	Male	Wool, linen	Tight leg coverings
Stays	Female	Canvas, whalebone	Boned bodice
Gown	Female	Silk, velvet	Full skirt, fitted bodice
Ruff	Both	Linen, starch	Starched collar
Farthingale	Female	Whalebone, wire	Rigid hoop skirt
Partlet	Female	Linen, silk	Neck overlay
Jerkin	Male	Leather, wool	Sleeveless outer layer
Houpelande	Female	Velvet, brocade	Long robe with high collar

Visual Gallery

Understanding these terms provides a solid foundation for reading primary sources, examining artwork, or recreating period attire for reenactments. Fashion in the Renaissance was more than clothingit was a visual language of power, identity, and artistic innovation.